There are on the market different kinds of dog collars, and a dog owner sometimes does not know what to choose, because each collar has a different impact on the dog’s neck. So you have to be well aware of the collar type which fits best your dog, and of course, which also satisfies your quality requirements. Here are some collar types which are recommended for your dogs.

Simple buckle collar

It is a simple belt, tied to the dog’s neck, having a metal buckle. Made of nylon or leather, it may be adjustable. It can be used as a simple collar, in order to tie your dog, or it may be an identification collar (for the municipal license, range medal, etc.). If you use this collar to educate or to train your dog, it may cause an opposition reaction from the dog (pull – pull, push – push). Therefore this collar can’t be used at all for education or obedience training, because there are no means of applying a correction using the collar (a slight collar stroke), without the automatic opposition of the dog. Besides, you can hurt your elbow or your shoulders if you use it with a large dog.

Adjustable “quick release” collar

This collar type is the most recommended for puppies because it can be well adjusted on a growing puppy’s neck. It is made of nylon, with a plastic buckle. But, as well as the simple buckle collar, it can’t be used for obedience training. Break away collar

It is a special collar, which breaks when it is hit. It was invented as a result of a dog’s death, whose collar did not break, even if the dog was hanging. It is recommended when you allow your dog running free in the back yard, without being supervised. Conventional strangulation collar - Sliding collar

Also called “choker”, this collar is used the most frequently for dogs. A study made in Germany proved that this type of collar causes the wounding of the neck, of the spinal column, as well as of the throat, if it is not used properly (which means in 95 per cent of the cases!). Since it is not used for obedience training, but as a preventive measure, this collar can’t be used for all kind of dogs, neither by all kinds of persons. It is actually a chain, with a sort of ring at each end. The collar slides into one of the rings at each end.

The collar slides into one of the rings, making the shape of a “P”. The leash is attached to the ring at the end of the “P”, that is why the collar might slide. Take into account that if your dog walks on your left, the collar does have the form of a “P”. But if the dog walks on your right, the collar must form a “Q”. When the collar is attached to the second ring (the still ring), no sliding of the collar is allowed.

This kind of collar provokes a complete strangulation of the dog. A lot of dogs even died. You must never leave this type of collar at the dog’s neck if it is alone, outdoors or in a kennel, as an accident may occur very quickly.

If the chain is large enough, it can slide less easily, so the collar is less effective. If the chain is soft enough, the correction will be more effective. The adjustment must be perfect if you want an efficient correction, by sliding the chain. A too short or a too long collar won’t correct conveniently the dog and there will appear the danger of a wounding for the dog or even for the person who holds the leash.

Nylon holding collar

These collars are usually used for conformation exhibitions. They are used in the same way as the conventional strangulation collars, very easily. Martingale type collar

These collars are a variation of the strangulation collar. They are effective for a simple, quick and precise correction of the dog, if it is well adjusted.

The adjustment round the dog’s neck is important if you want an efficient dog collar. It is recommended for puppies and adult dogs, for any kind of education or obedience training.

Martingale leash

It is an exhibition leash for small dogs.

Prong or pinch collar

This collar is used for the same reasons as the conventional strangulation collar. It is used to correct the dog, exerting an equal pressure on the whole surface of the neck. If it is well adjusted, this collar doesn’t pinch the skin and doesn’t hurt the animal. The pinch - prong collar is actually much more secure when it is used, than a strangulation collar. A study made in Germany proved that the injuries on the neck, on the back and in the throat are less, when it is used the pinch collar instead of a strangulation one. This type of collar is usually used for dogs which pull the leash, which refuse a usual correction with the strangulation collar or for people who are not able to control a very strong dog. This collar is used for dog obedience training and it must be used correctly. It must never be used for a puppy.

Dog halter

The dog halter is often used for the dogs which pull the leash. It can be used as the horse halter, but it is usually applied near the eyes, so that it is very uncomfortable for most of the dogs. This halter is not a muzzle and in order to be effective it must be used together with a collar. Harness

Some people use the harness in order to stop the dog pulling the leash. It is a contradictory use, because a harness is made for pulling. These are the most popular dog collars. Nowadays there are more advanced dog collars, like magnetic or electronic ones, but this subject should be treated separately.

What is clicker training?

Clicker training is a way to train your dog to encourage good behavior while ignoring and eliminating bad behavior. Dogs of any age can quickly associate the clicker sound with desired behaviors. It can work more quickly and be more effective than voice or hand cues only.

Click for Positive Behavior

The most important part of clicker training is to click for positive behavior. If you want to teach your dog to sit, click when your dog sits normally. If you are housetraining your dog, click when she is going outside. Remember click=good. Do not make the mistake of clicking when the dog is engaging in behavior you want to stop. Do not use it when your not-yet-housetrained dog has an accident on the floor. She will soon learn the behavior that you desire. Until then, ignore the non desirable behavior.

Timing

Timing is crucial in clicker training. Dogs have short attention spans. Do not wait until after the behavior is finished. If you do, he will not know why you are clicking and will become confused about what is the desirable behavior. Do not worry if the clicking interrupts the behavior. Your dog will still associate the click with the behavior.

Reward

After the click comes the dog’s favorite part of training—the reward. You want to teach your dog to sit. Click while your dog is sitting down, then offer the reward. Do not give the dog too much; a small piece of your dog’s favorite food will suffice.

Adding the Cues

Soon, your dog will learn what behaviors you find desirable. He will begin to do this behavior in the hopes of securing a click and a treat. When this happens it is time to add the cues and train your dog with words or hand signals. If you are teaching your dog “sit,” only click when the dog sits during or after the cue. Do not click if the dog does not respond. He will begin to associate the cues with the desired behaviors.

Stay Positive

If you begin to become frustrated with your dog, it is time to put the clicker away and take a break from training. Dog training takes time, but as long as progress is being made you know you are on the right path.

You know you have the smartest dog on the block. Learn these three fun tricks to train your dog and
everyone else will agree with you.

1. Bow

Bow is a great trick to start with because it is fairly simple yet still manages to impress. Start with
getting your dog’s favorite treat. Hold the treat between your dog’s front paws while your dog is
standing. When she goes for the treat, move your hand back so that your dog has to look between
her legs. When she does this, she will naturally bow to keep her balance. Give her the treat and
repeat, saying “bow” when she goes into the bow position. If your dog tries to lay down, you can put
your hand on her stomach to prevent this.

2. Speak

This classic command is usually simple to teach, especially if your dog already likes to bark. For this
command, decide on a hand signal. Some signals I’ve seen used include snapping your fingers then
holding up your index finger, a closed fist that twists, or opening and closing your thumb and fingers,
like a mouth. When you do this motion, tell your dog “speak” at the same time. Eventually, your
dog will bark at you. When she does, reward and praise her. When she learns this command you
can try it with the hand signal only or the voice prompt only.

3. Wave

Just as in speak, decide on a hand signal to use. Make sure it isn’t too close to the hand signal you use
for other commands. Have your dog sit and sit down close next to him. Give the hand signal and
the “wave” command. If your dog moves his paw, praise and reward. Most dogs will need to
be nudged at first to help them understand. Gently nudge his paw until he lifts it. When he does,
praise and reward.